I am getting ready to lay some laminate flooring. I am going to replace the bueatiful parquet flooring the previous owners left in the dining room and the linoleum tiles placed over the linoleum sheet floor in the attached kitchen!! (The previous sentence was written with sarcasm!!)
I have removed the parquet and both layers of linoleum, and was left with the subfloor covered in dry glue where the parquet was and what looks like floor leveler where the linoleum was. The glue for the parquet is some what even but coarse, the “floor leveler” is cracked and big pieces are missing sporadically around floor where it came up with the flooring.
I was wondering how even the floor has to be for the laminate? I am going to be putting down padding, but want to make sure I don’t have boards that sink when you walk on them. If you do recomend me removing the filler and the glue, what do you think I should use?
Thanks.
I have a 2 story house and still have the crap cheap carpet the builder put in.
I would like to install Hardwood flooring preferable a dark shade(pre stianed) if possible as my kitchen cabinets are Cherry. Is it easy to install yourself or am I better off just going with Tile?
What is the best wood in your opinion? Real-wood flooring not that look alike stuff.
Thank you
My kitchen needs a new floor. It had square tiles that are now starting to come up, it’s 20 years old. I ideally want some a kinda wood tiles / laminated finish. Similar to: http://www.woodfloorpolish.com/New%20Folder/New%20Bruce%20floor.jpg (but with probably a darker colour)
I can’t tell exactly what surface is under the tiles… I think it’s some kind of concrete. How difficult would it be for an amateur to lay it? I have basic DIY skills/tools.
Can anybody estimate what it is per sqaure foor / meter for DIY?
Can anybody estimate what it is per sqaure foor / meter if I got someone else to install it?
We live in a rental property and the lino flooring is that old, industrial style stuff. It’s horrible, very scratched and stains so badly I essentially have to clean it on my hands and knees.
I have seen carpet tiles or squares in Bunnings, and I’m wondering if it’s possible to just lay them down over the lino? Obviously being a rental we can’t lay them properly, but what if we were just to fit them and lay them over the lino without any adhesive? Would it be a problem for the lino underneath, and would the vacuum cleaner lift them every time I did the floors?
Any advice would be appreciated, I really hate our awful floor and would like to improve it!
I am putting up drywall in my bathroom. It is an old house and has rockwall . I chiseled a somewhat strait line and pulled the old rockwall out. Then I drew straight lines on each wall. The questions I have is what can I use to cut the rockwall straight and clean. I do not have alot of money. The second question is, there is gaps that go below the tile along the wall. Can I use joint filler to fill this gap, if not what should I use.
I pulled back a corner of the carpet to see what was underneath before I started this project…it was concrete. I did all the research to lay laminate on top of concrete and bought everything I needed. As I ripped everything up today there ended up being black ceramic tile under the carpet padding predominately in the middle of the floor. Almost like who ever layed the carpet was too lazy to take up all the tiles. Do I need to break them up and get rid of them before I lay the matting for my laminate floor or can I just leave it there and be lazy too? Will it have any effect?
I have a 2 story house and still have the crap cheap carpet the builder put in.
I would like to install Hardwood flooring preferable a dark shade(pre stianed) if possible as my kitchen cabinets are Cherry. Is it easy to install yourself or am I better off just going with Tile?
What is the best wood in your opinion? Real-wood flooring not that look alike stuff.
Thank you
Ive just taken up my bathroom floor ready to lay self sicky vinyl, i put one tile down and it wouldnt stick, the problem is my floor is quite neven and chipped, is there an underlay i can put down first to even the room out? Thanks
Hi. This is my first time posting here. I have a question that I’m hoping someone can help me with. We had to pull up the carpet in the hallway of our home because I couldn’t stand the odor coming from it any longer. We had cats in the past that preferred it to their litter box.
Due to financial restrictions, my husband and I decided that we would go with what I refer to as a “temporary, indefinite fix”. We are going to install some of the self-adhesive floor tiles. Our dilemma in installing these tiles is where to measure and snap the chalk lines for lining up the tiles.
The hallway is in a T shape. The hallway is not the same width at one end as it is on the other end of either part of the T. (The builders didn’t do a very good job of squaring up their work.) The top part of the T has six doors leading to bedrooms, closets and bathroom. The bottom of the T has one closet door in it. The bottom part of the T stops at the foyer which has parquet type wood flooring.
The instructions that came with the tile said to draw a line 12″ to the wall that is farthest from the door. I can’t exactly do that since there are so many doors. I thought about measuring the line 12″ from the wall that makes the top part of the T, but then I run into the problem with the walls not being square. Is this still the best place to start? If I do this, then I will have partial pieces meeting up with the foyar floor. Will this look alright? I plan to put a wood piece down where the two different flooring meet to give it a “professional” finished look.
Also, should I mark a chalk line down the center of the bottom part of the T to cross with the line on the top part of the T?
I hope all this make sense and that someone out there can help me. Thanks in advance for any help.
Natural limestone must be sealed before and after installation. This prevents thin set and then the grout from staining them..I ve never used a 3/16 trowel even w/ back buttering.. Tile council of America calls for a minimum of 3/8 square notched trowel.. This varies w/ the tile size though..I use a 1/2 square notched trowel on a regular basis “twisting ” the tile back and forth to get as full as coverage as poss.. Using a white modified thin set will prevent stain bleed thru on lighter stones.. Clean cement(sweeping and then washing ) before hand is a big help.. Using flat side of trowel run a :”smooth coat” bonding thin layer of thin set 1 st.. Then use a full spread of the thin set.. This allows a bit of moisture on the cement to prevent to fast thin set drying . Grouting you ll go over and fill any holes or pit s that come w/ some natural stone.. If your using a tumbled lime stone use a small joint because when grouted the joint will look much wider GL