I read that if installing HARDIBACKER, we have to lay thinset on the subfloor and then screw it to the subfloor. If the subfloor is wood, won’t the thinset cause the wood to get moist and possible rot over time? Also if the SUBFLOOR is like a deck made above the ground, just being held with 2×4’s, what size hardibacker should we use, 1/4 or 1/2? If this is the case and appliances are being rolled over this area and it’s got the wood plank, then the hardibacker with screws (no thinset under the hardibacker) then the thinset motar to hold the TRAVERTINE tiles in place. Won’t the tile crack?
A tile installer refuses to lay the small mosaic tile insisting that the floor will flex too much and the grout will crack over time. (American Olean 1″ hex in a five year old home).
I’ve added a new room on the house with a concrete slab foundation. The floor will transition into the existing structure which has a perimeter foundation and therefore a wood subfloor. We’re going to tile the two adjoining rooms so we’re laying down hardibacker on both the wood, and concrete. What is the best method of attaching the hardibacker to the concrete.
Thanks.
Do you have to wait any length of time after putting thinset under the hardibacker board? Or can you go ahead and start laying the tile right away?
We recently put down brand new HardiBacker to our bathroom floor and were re-installing the toilet when a pipe came loose and water went on the floor. My husband had to run to the basement to shut off the water and in the mean time, some water pooled on the floor and I quickly tried to wipe it up. Around the toilet, screws, and some corners, the Backer still looks a little damp. However, it is drying rather quickly, do we need to take up all the wet Hardibacker and replace it with new before we lay our ceramic tile?